While things are kind of slow on the old bulletin board, maybe someone can give me some advice. What is the secret to the Tuttle box fin system? Is it just me? No matter what I do, it always seems I need a different length screw, I can't hit the holes, the fin goes too far in the box or not far enough. I know there must be some trick to it I haven't figured out. Help!! What a @%#&ed-uped system.
Gene (Dumb A--) Mathis
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Gene Mathis
Have you tried violent angry cursing and swearing at it? Calling it a name of some sort also seems to help.
Randy
The secret is the sides of the box are parallel, not conical like most others. Therefore to adjust the depth of the fin in the box, you only need to sand or shim the front or back of the fin.
Secret 2 is to get a 1/4 x 20 tap and make sure all your metric threaded tuttle fins get rethreaded to English/American. Then go to Home Depot and spend about $2-3 on an assortment of screws from 1.5- 3 inches.
Secret 3 is to remember this is the oldest and strongest through-hull fin box systme (iirc). That almost all Formula boards use this system and not their propietary (sp?) manufacturer's system (eg Mistral, Bic, etc) tells you the builders think it's the strongest.
Secret 4 is to remember that there are deep and regular Tuttle boxes/fins. The regular size is used up to about 45-50 cm fins and has a shallower head. Not as strong but suitable for thinner boards. Formula and other big boards which use longer fins use the deep version in which the head is larger and puts less stress on the board. If you try sticking a regular fin into a deep box, you'll find yourself hunting for those not so easy to find 3.5-4.5 inch stainless steel screws.
Or you can do what Randy does to get the in the board. Stick it about half way in and then whack it on the curb till the fin fits flush.
Not really, but I do find that after I'm done sailing, and remove the bolts the fin will often be stuck in place. A good swift kick usually gets is out!
Randy
The Fin Reaper
Thanks for all the advice.
The info on shimming the front and back of the fin, instead of the sides, may help. I am trying to run a shallow fin and a deep box and do need a long fin screw about 4 inches, so I guess I'll keep messing with it and keep cussing it.
Gene
Gene Mathis
Check something like Ace Hardware for screws or West Marine which is near your house. Actually the hardware store near the Brandy House was my source for 3+" screws for doing the same thing.
Home Depot rarely has anything longer than 3 in stainless.
I know it seems like a PITA but paying $12 for one Powerbox screw wasn't fun either.
http://www.boltdepot.com/index.html
I've never tried this place, but someone on rec.windsurfing, said they were good.
Randy
OK Chuck,
What does WhiteCap have in stock and prices? 1/4 - 20?, 3", 3.5" & 4"?
That site Randy mentioned charges $6 shipping on $5 worth of screws.
Gene
Gene Mathis
Sounds like a real screw job if you ask me.
Of course, one might buy a lifetime supply for say $20 and pay $6 shipping too, I would think.
Randy
Dude, nip around the corner to West Marine near Wendy's over by 985. They likely have something.
I haven't been to that one, but the West's by 285 and 85 does not have metric stainless steel.
Randy
Randy,
See my comments regarding the 1/4 x 20 tap. I was assuming if he was looking for a 4" screw, that it would not be metric. OTOH, if he needs metric, the $6 shipping is a bargain compared to the gas it would take to track anything down like that in Atlanta.
Gene, the screws sell for $1.50 each and shipping and handling is usually around $15 to $20 bucks. Next time your in Hatteras you can pick up 1/4-20 barrel nuts and swap out those metric rascalls in your fin. Using the 1/4-20 tap also works, I have one and will loan it to you next time we hook up. Before I found the tap I just ran the 1/4-20 screw in the barrel nut and it threaded itself, since the barrel nuts are made of brass. You might find barrel nuts at a cabinet shop.
Plop
Danny Johnson
will trade tuttle fins for power box.. i have tuttle fins in the 50cm